Hunan Tofu Stirfry
Now it's time to make some really wonderful meals with our soyfoods. First, we'll make two dishes that emphasize home-made tofu. We'll start with a stir fry from the Hunan Province of southern China. Hunanese cuisine is known for its generous use of chiles and another important soyfood: fermented black beans. Called "douchi" (豆豉), they are made by salting and fermenting black soybeans in a way that is very similar to the two-step fermentation process used in making of miso: First, black soybeans are cooked, drained, allowed to thoroughly dry, and inoculated with koji -- the Aspergillus oryzae fungus. They are then incubated until a fragrant felt of fungal hyphae binds the beans together. The soybeans are then put into a wooden vat where they are immersed in salt water containing ginger and other herbs or spices. A weighted lid is placed on the beans to exclude oxygen, and the mixture is allowed to undergo a secondary fermentation by anaerobic, salt-tolerant microbes for about 6 months. Finally, the fermented soybeans are drained and allowed to dry in sunlight. Douchi is the earliest known fermented soyfood, and dates back to at least 200 BC. Like tofu and chiang, they were ultimately transported throughout eastern Asia. The 700 AD Taihō Ritsuryō by Japanese Emperor Monmu sets out regulations regarding the production, trade, and taxation of both fermented black beans and an ancestor to miso. The SoyInfo Center has recently published a free, downloadable electronic book that details the history of douchi, and you should give it a look. The following recipe also makes use of deep fried tofu, which remains wonderfully chewy even after long-simmering in flavored sauces. These make a very satisfying substitute for meat. When served with cooked rice, the following recipe will make about 4 servings. 2 tablespoons dried black beans Put mushrooms into a bowl and cover with hot water; let soak 30 minutes. Put beans into a bowl and cover with hot water; also let soak 30 minutes. Drain mushrooms, and cut into thin strips. Drain beans, and mash beans with a fork. Cut tofu into 2”x2”x½” thick squares, and then cut squares in half along the diagonal to make 2 triangles per block. Heat oil to 350° F, and then fry tofu triangles in batches, turning once, until golden brown – about 5 minutes. Remove from oil, drain, and dry on paper toweling.
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a wok over high heat. When smoking, add in crushed black beans and stirfry for 30 seconds. Add in the garlic ad continue stir frying for another 30 seconds. Add in chile paste and continue stir frying for another 30 seconds. Add in wine, soy sauce and stock and bring to a boil. Add in broccoli, lower heat to medium, cover, and steam until the florets are bright green and slightly cooked, about 5 minutes. Add in tofu and Japanese leeks and simmer another 3 minutes. Add in cornstarch mixture, stir well, and cook until sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Take off heat, dress with sesame oil, and serve.
You'll likely need to visit your local Asian market to obtain the fermented black beans, Sichuan chile paste, dark soy sauce, Chinese rice wine, and sesame oil. |
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