Straw & Hay with Peas (Paglia e Fieno coi Piselli)

This is one of the more classic spring-time pastas.  Made with fresh garden peas, it is often tossed with yellow and green pasta, referred to in Italian as “straw and hay” (paglia e pierno).  Any wide, long pasta – such as fettuccine or pappardelle – will work fine, however.  The following recipe is adapted to vegetarian form from one presented in Guiliano Hazan’s 1993 The Classic Pasta Cookbook. 

¾ pound fresh shelled peas
¼ cup butter
¼ cup yellow onion, finely chopped
½ pound crimini mushrooms, cut into ½” dice
½ cup goat milk
½ cup chevre
½ cup pecorino romano cheese, grated
salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound dry straw & hay (yellow & green) pasta

Blanch the peas in boiling water until just tender, about 3-4 minutes.  Drain and set aside.

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add onion and sauté for 10 minutes until it has softened and turned golden in color.  Add the mushrooms and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until all the released water has evaporated, another 10 minutes. 

Puree the goat milk and chevre into a thick cream.  Pour into the onion-mushroom sauté.  Cook until the sauce is reduced by half.  Add in the blanched peas and heat until warmed through.  Adjust seasoning to taste.

While the sauce is reducing, bring four quarts of salted water to a boil.  Add in the pasta and cook until al dente.  Drain.  Toss with the pea sauce and grated romano cheese.  Serve immediately.

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