How to Grow Brussels SproutsOne of the most essential pieces of information in the optimum production of Brussels Sprouts is knowledge of their unique climate requirements: being initially developed in the Low Countries of Holland and Belgium, they appreciate long, cool growing seasons. Even though these countries are as far north as Hudson’s Bay, their winters are much warmer than similar latitudes across much of North America because of proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. These areas also don’t get very warm in the summer for the same reason. As a result, the highly frost-tolerant Brussels Sprouts can be grown year-round in their place of origin, where both the summers and winters are neither too hot nor too cold. If you live in the cool costal areas of the Pacific Northwest, you are very lucky indeed, as your climate in broad brushstrokes is the same as Brussels Sprouts’ home. In this area, all you need to do is plant seeds when you set out the rest of your garden, with year-round cultivation being an option. But, if you live anywhere else, you’ll have to do things differently. Because they tolerate cold spells better than heat waves, if you live in a mild-winter areas that do not drop much below 20o F., you’ll want to plant Brussels Sprouts seeds once the heat of summer is well past, and grow them as a winter crop. If you live in colder areas, you’ll want to set out husky transplants into the garden when there is approximately 100 days remaining before the first frost. If you’re direct sowing seeds, plant about ½ inch deep, and thin to about 2 feet spacing when they are a half-foot tall. Don’t forget that you can eat the thinned plants like you would kale. If you’re setting out transplants, space them 2 feet apart and set in deeply so that the bottom leaves are just above the soil surface; firm the soil and water well. Mulch the growing plants to help retain soil moisture and keep the ground from getting too hot. Hand pull weeds, rather than hoe cultivating, to protect their shallow roots. Fertilize them lightly twice a month. Stake the plants to keep them from being blown over in high winds. As the bottom-most leaves begin to yellow, pinch them off. This encourages the plant to grow tall, giving you more sprouts per stalk. Harvest after the sprouts are 1-2” in diameter and have been exposed to a few frosts, as this will help make them sweet. You can prolong harvest by pinching off the first ripe sprouts near the plant bottom first, and then keep harvesting them up the stalk. If the sprouts are not maturing quickly enough and hard winter freezes are on their way, you can remove the plant top, which will force sprout development over a few weeks long period. If a plant-killing freeze of less than 20o F. is on its way, you can uproot stalks with developed sprouts, remove the leaves, and hang in a cool, sheltered place like an attached garage, basement, or root cellar. Archive |
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