Quelites
One of the many useful concepts in meso-American gardening is the idea of two types of weeds: “good” and “bad”. Bad weeds are simply those plants that show up in gardens that have no benefit and decrease crop yields. Good weeds, however, will have some use while also benefiting garden soils. One of the most well known of these good weeds in Mexico and the adjacent USA are the various species of amaranth that come up with abundance in every garden. These need to be weeded out to allow the crops a chance to grow, but their leaves are a favored early season green. Termed ‘quelites,’ this word also includes weeds in other related plant families, such as the Chenopodiaceae. As related by Cheryl Alters & Bill Jamison in their 1995 The Border Cookbook, the cooking of the former northern Mexican frontier (in other words the southwest USA)
is much more simple than the grander cuisines found to the south in the former Aztec and Mayan heartland. In the following recipe, adapted from one presented in this cookbook, quelites are made into a simple and hearty dish that includes two other iconic southwestern ingredients: piñon nuts from an indigenous small pine and powdered chili pods.
1/3 cup piñon (pine) nuts
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon mild New Mexico chili powder
1½ pounds amaranth greens
salt and freshly ground back pepper to taste
Roast piñons in a 350° F oven until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool.
Heat oil over medium heat. Sauté garlic for 1 minute, then stir in the ground chile powder. Add in the greens, cover the pan, and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until the greens are tender but still vibrant green, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If water accumulates in the pan bottom, uncover, increase burner temperature to medium-high, and boil off, stirring constantly. Mix in the roasted piñons and serve.
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